The Moorish Castle

Introduction

Perched dramatically atop Sintra's granite peaks, the Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors) has stood sentinel over the landscape since the 8th century. This medieval Islamic fortress, with its undulating stone walls snaking across rugged terrain, offers visitors not just panoramic views of the Portuguese coastline, but a journey through layers of history—from Moorish defenders and Christian conquerors to Romantic-era restoration and UNESCO recognition. Its weathered ramparts tell tales of cultural exchange, military strategy, and enduring legends that continue to captivate visitors today.

Historic Highlights

High above Sintra's misty forests, the Castelo dos Mouros weaves together a millennium of Portuguese history with stone and legend. Established by North African Muslims (Moors) in the 8th-9th century as part of Islamic Iberia, this mountaintop fortress guarded strategic views of the Atlantic coastline and approaches to Lisbon with imposing granite walls that blend seamlessly into the rocky crags.

In 1147, as Portuguese forces led by King Afonso Henriques captured Lisbon, the Moorish defenders of Sintra peacefully surrendered their castle. A charming local legend claims the entire garrison mysteriously vanished through secret tunnels, leaving only an elderly man to hand over the keys. After the conquest, Afonso granted special privileges to 30 Christian settlers in his 1154 Foral (charter), transforming the former Islamic stronghold into a Christian outpost.

"What man has brought together, only God may separate" – reads the poignant inscription on a tomb near the castle chapel, where King Ferdinand II had human remains from both Muslim and Christian eras respectfully reburied during his 19th-century restorations.

Inside the castle's second ring of walls stands the roofless Chapel of São Pedro de Canaferrim, Sintra's first parish church built in the late 12th century. Archaeological excavations revealed a medieval Christian cemetery surrounding it, with graves dating from the 12th to 14th centuries. The chapel bore witness to centuries of change – from bustling worship services to gradual abandonment. By 1493, an official report described it as deserted with broken doors, noting it was "constantly profaned by the Jews" – apparently the last remaining inhabitants of the increasingly deserted castle enclave.

By the 18th century, nature had reclaimed much of the castle. The devastating 1755 earthquake that destroyed Lisbon also collapsed sections of Sintra's ancient walls. However, salvation came in 1839 when Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the artistic husband of Queen Maria II, leased the ruins for the token sum of 240 réis yearly. An ardent Romantic, Ferdinand commissioned German architect Baron von Eschwege to stabilize crumbling walls, rebuild battlements, and transform the medieval ruin into a picturesque attraction.

Ferdinand created winding pathways among exotic trees, establishing contemplative viewpoints where visitors could indulge in melancholy reverie while gazing across dramatic vistas – a perfect embodiment of Romantic aesthetics that still enchants visitors today.

The castle remains steeped in folklore. One enduring tale speaks of Moura Zaida, daughter of the castle's Moorish commander, who fell in love with a Christian knight. According to legend, as she attempted to flee with her lover through a secret passage during the conquest, Zaida vanished into the earth, ensorcelled by Moorish magic. Her seven sighs of sorrow supposedly gave name to the nearby Palace of Seteais (Seven Sighs).

"I have many treasures... enchanted from Moorish times... A son of the ancient kings, I have guarded for a thousand years and three months by a magic spell" – wrote Portuguese playwright Gil Vicente in 1527, referencing another popular legend of a great Moorish king imprisoned eternally beneath the castle's cistern.

Climb to the Torre Real (Royal Tower), the highest point of the castle, accessible via roughly 500 stone steps. This tower formed the original Moorish alcáçova (citadel) and later earned literary fame as the supposed retreat of 16th-century poet Bernardim Ribeiro, who tradition claims lived there as a reclusive caretaker.

Timeline & Context

Historical Timeline

• 8th-9th century: Construction of the original Islamic fortification during the early medieval Moorish period of Iberia. Archaeological evidence confirms an alcácer (fortified enclosure) and adjoining aljama (Islamic community).
• 1031: The ruler of the taifa of Badajoz briefly ceded Sintra (along with Lisbon) to King Alfonso VI of León in a political alliance.
• Late 11th century: Castle returns to Muslim control under the Almoravid dynasty.
• 1147: After the Christian conquest of Lisbon, the Moorish defenders of Sintra negotiate a voluntary surrender of the castle to forces of King Afonso Henriques.
• 1154: King Afonso I (Henriques) issues the Foral (charter) of Sintra, granting privileges to 30 Christian settlers charged with guarding the castle.
• Late 12th century: Construction of the Chapel of São Pedro de Canaferrim within the castle walls, becoming Sintra's first parish church.
• 1185-1211: King Sancho I orders repairs and strengthening of the castle walls.
• 1375: King Ferdinand I commissions further repairs to the castle, overseen by João Annes de Almada.
• 1383-85: During the Portuguese dynastic crisis, the castle's alcaide Don Henrique Manuel de Vilhena holds the fortress for claimant Beatriz before surrendering after the Battle of Aljubarrota.
• 15th century: Gradual abandonment of the castle as the population shifts downhill to the better-sheltered royal palace and village in the valley.
• 1493: Official report describes the Chapel of São Pedro as abandoned with broken doors, noting it was being "constantly profaned by the Jews" – apparently the last residents in the castle enclave.
• 1496-97: King Manuel I's decree expelling or forcibly converting Jews leads to the complete abandonment of the castle.
• 1636: Lightning strike damages part of the Torre de Menagem (keep).
• 1755: Great Lisbon Earthquake causes sections of the castle walls to collapse and further damages the chapel.
• 1839: Prince Consort Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha leases the castle from Sintra municipality for 240 réis annually.
• 1839-1845: Major restoration works undertaken by Baron von Eschwege at Ferdinand's commission, including consolidation of walls, rebuilding of battlements, and creation of scenic paths.
• 1910: The Castle of the Moors is designated a National Monument by the newly formed Portuguese Republic.
• 1939: The national heritage office (DGEMN) undertakes reconstruction of several wall sections in preparation for the 800th anniversary of Portugal's foundation.
• 1976: Beginning of systematic archaeological excavations at the castle.
• 1995: UNESCO recognizes the "Cultural Landscape of Sintra" as a World Heritage Site, with the Castle of the Moors as an integral component.
• 2000: Management transferred to Parques de Sintra – Monte da Lua, S.A.
• 2009: Establishment of a permanent Archaeological Research Field at the castle; ruins of the Chapel of São Pedro de Canaferrim converted into an interpretation center.

The Castelo dos Mouros represents an exemplary case study in military architecture of the early medieval Iberian frontier. Its military significance derives principally from its exceptional vantage point at 412 meters above sea level, offering commanding views of the Atlantic coast, the surrounding countryside, and the approaches toward Lisbon. This strategic position allowed the garrison to monitor maritime traffic and potential invasions from the sea, while also controlling inland routes.

Architecturally, the castle exemplifies both Islamic and early Portuguese defensive principles. The original Moorish construction employed the "soga e tissón" masonry technique (alternating courses of long and short stone blocks bound by mortar), still visible in the lower sections up to approximately 4-5 meters in height. This building method was characteristic of al-Andalus military architecture. The fortress follows the natural topography, with irregular curtain walls adapted to the contours of the granite outcrops—a pragmatic approach that maximized the defensive potential of the terrain while minimizing construction effort.

The castle's layout features a double ring of defensive walls encircling approximately 12,000 square meters. The outer perimeter extends roughly 450 meters and is punctuated by five surviving towers: four square and one round. The most notable entrance is the eastern gate, a horseshoe-arched portal (porta em rodízio) of authentic Moorish design. Within the fortified enclosure, archaeologists have identified foundations of domestic structures comprising the "Islamic quarter," along with grain silos hewn into the bedrock—utilitarian pits where cereals and foodstuffs were stored.

A critical defensive infrastructure element is the large vaulted cistern (18 by 6 meters) that ensured water supply during sieges. This sophisticated hydraulic system collected rainwater and spring water, and historical records indicate it continued to supply Sintra's fountains even centuries after the castle's military abandonment.

The castle's preservation status reflects multiple phases of intervention and interpretation. King Ferdinand II's 1840s restoration exemplifies 19th-century Romantic conservation philosophy—prioritizing picturesque aesthetics and emotional response over strict archaeological accuracy. The DGEMN interventions of 1939 represent the authoritarian Estado Novo's nationalist approach to heritage, emphasizing monumental grandeur and historical continuity. Contemporary management by Parques de Sintra follows UNESCO guidelines for cultural landscapes, balancing visitor access with conservation principles.

Within the broader context of Iberian castle studies, the Castelo dos Mouros provides valuable comparative material. Unlike many contemporaneous fortifications that underwent significant post-medieval expansions or adaptations to artillery warfare, Sintra's castle remained largely unmodified after the 15th century. This relative preservation of its medieval form, despite periods of neglect and natural damage, offers scholars an unusually clear window into early medieval defensive architecture in the region.